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How to assemble the OIL PUMP – 1945 Harley Davidson WLA / ep152

In this weeks episode Ash explains how the oil pump works, how to take it to pieces, check it and how to put it back together again.

What i’d tend to do before i clean them a little bit of grinding paste yeah all that is is the same size ball bearing as that just welded on the end of a screwdriver right so that’s your main feed pump so oil comes from the tank into there that is your rear cam shaft on the rear cylinder comes out the casing well you can see it on this one comes out the casing

There so that’s that yeah yeah okay yeah so that’s obviously turning all the time the engine’s running that fits in there and turns your oil pump yeah okay so that’s the basics of that how it’s fed how it’s driven right so you’ve got two with flat heads with a dome head yeah okay they’re actually different sizes i believe so i remember rightly so you can’t get

That wrong you’ve got a lightweight spring see that crap in there that’s metal so that’s why you have to split and take them all apart 3 8 ball bearing all the ball bearings in these are the same size right now those two just they are regulators of salts in the oil pump but they’re not adjustable you can’t do anything with them yeah okay okay so the other one

Different spring i’m sure they’re different sizes or something see that’s loose in there so you can’t put it in the wrong hole if you if you notice it’s loose it’s wrong now this one has got an adjuster in it so that comes out much larger section spring i don’t think the ball bearing come oh it does come out okay another ball bearing yeah so that’s those three

Now to get this out that’s your actual pump rotor see there see the angle on that tooth and the angle on that tooth yeah see that gap there okay so that tooth is forced out against that wall of the casing so as it comes around there’s a gap there that’s concentric so that pushes out on that spring forces the oil around the pump until it goes to the outlet on the

Other side okay these can be a bit of a to get apart sometimes and he’s going that’s right so you’ve got one vein your spring which could do with another one with the looks of it so and that’s your other vein there that these can be very very stuck in there because of the oil around them generally they will come out there you go that’s that okay so they’re all

Your passages inside that feed and receive the oil now here it’s the only other important bit in them and that’s the other side see it’s moving it goes in and out you see that that’s basically is a centrifugal release valve so if it builds up too much pressure starts going funny that’s what that will do so as long as that hasn’t fallen off it’s moving you’re

Okay this has to move you spray it up it’ll probably rattle side to side hear it okay so that has to be moving the only reason why i wouldn’t be moving coped up with again you know years and years and years and years of use it could have got jammed up so it’s not moving the best thing to do is take it apart and clean it you can’t oh yeah you can’t you can get

Those out but you have to smash them out so okay as long as you can get it to rattle like that you’re okay and if you can’t get a new one okay because what it does that little hole there is back pressure oil goes into there forces that out and locks the feed out one way or the other that’s all it is so obviously this all needs cleaning which i won’t do at the

Moment the basic assembly of the oil pump put your rotor back in see that always goes in that way that inner hole can you see that lip there look like that is machined to your perfect round which holds the back face of that you can see where it runs in it on the bright side yeah the outer face has got your concentric on it so when that’s in there that you’ve

Got your gap that’s your basically is your oil pump yeah as those teeth go round in the vein just goes that way yeah see that tooth is basically sticking up more so that’s forced outwards by your spring in the middle so you’ve got one going that way and one going that way they both face outwards doesn’t matter which way they go so if you put that one on that

One it’s the same way around yeah yeah so that’s that so that’s your basic pump rotor can’t do any more with that unless it’s severely severely rusted or worn or got holes all over it that’s generally there’s nothing you can do with ozia obviously clean them all out i’ve got a tool i made years ago what i tend to do before i clean them a little bit of grinding

Paste yeah all that is it’s the same size ball bearing as that just welded on the end of a screwdriver so a little bit of grinding paste on the end pop it down each hole doesn’t matter which one they’re all the same size and just give them a rub round because this is only cast iron is soft and that will seat the ball bearing you have in case there’s any rubbish

Or crap in there i go over all three it’s all it takes just a few turns because as soft as anything that’s it literally for that obviously you’ll flush it all through with petrol clean it all right assembly again i’ve done that bit this those two are exactly the same you’ve got one goes in there spring goes in making sure that see the recess in the cap gonna

Make sure that your springs in that recess so you go over it there yeah that’s that long just gone in there and it hasn’t gone in like bent or sideways nothing else to do with that one just do him up same with that one all goes in spring goes on making sure that you’re in your cap again that’s that right that’s this is the only one that matters so basically it’s

Just exactly the same ball bearing goes in spring goes in cap goes on that’s not the cat but if you look at that one’s got a slot all the way down to there yeah and that one has only got slot down to there now when you’re trying to do that up don’t try and put the screwdriver in the in the narrower one the long slot because it will force the screw head open and

You can’t do it up so always go in the big slot when you’re doing it up yeah so that goes in so that’ll screw in if you put the screwdriver in that way locks up straight away it’s forcing the head apart so you have to go in the big side right that is your only adjustment on it it should be the top of that screw yeah yeah so you can screw him in should be 3 8

Of an inch below the surface of the pump okay so you get a depth gauge i mean i’ve got this it doesn’t matter what you use you can mark it on a bit of rod you know drop dropper mark it on the end of a screwdriver with a masking tape as long as you’re lined up with that top face to that keep screwing it up and down until you get three eighths of an inch from the

Top surface right that’s 308 obviously you have to wiggle it around up and down just make sure your bang on three-eighths of an inch then that is literally just a cat that goes over the end so basically that’s your oil pump build and construction there’s nothing major to them at all a bit of a fallacy people get frightened of them but nothing to worry about

At all so those two ball bearings as long as those springs aren’t you know you can see physically if they’re stretched bent worn out you know in them in the reference manual i think it gives you length of springs and things to check but i’ve done so many of them i know they’re okay doesn’t matter which ball bearing goes and which hole the only one that matters

Is that one with a round cap as long as that plunger is set three eighths of an inch down before you put the cap on you’ll be fine will be the ruby cushions if you’ve got the depth wrong on it just wrong oil pressure okay it’s not it’s a regulator pressure regulator um i mean people wind them up wind them down do whatever they want with them but realistically

It’s not that critic it is critical but if you want to try and blow a load you know if you’re racing one i suppose you’d pump your oil pressure up a little bit more um but it will just leak more that’s all it’ll do it’ll just make it leak more if they’ve got any water in them or had water in them look for any ridges or lumps or circles where it’s just been sat

Down in there you know that one looks all right but these are just standard go to the bike shop push bike shop and get a free eighth ball bearing i don’t know if you can just see that it’s very very hard to see see that line there maybe that’s a ridge it’s not a ridge it’s a mark on the ball bearing it’s just running around there that see there’s another scuff

Mark there that means it’s caught on a on a ledge somewhere in one of those holes yeah so you rub that out put new ball bearings in it’s going to cost you 15 p for free ball bearings you know so it’s a no brainer not to put ball bearings in them if in doubt change it out well yeah for the money there’s no money is it it’s pennies i’ve got a big box of them over

There so yeah that one’s marked a bit as well you just see a line there it’s hard to see in the light but i can i can just see it very slightly so they have been just picking up somewhere yeah which is why you just rub your ledge out these are so soft the casings it will just dig itself in and form a ridge around the top how many rotations would you say to using

Five or six that’s fine yeah it’ll just like i say they’re soft just like cheese as soft as anything just take that lip off put new ball bearings in and pretty much nine times out of ten unless this has got so much water and it’s rotted the actual bottom of the things out and they’ve got holes in them which you can see if you start looking carefully that will

Actually come out of there but there can be a pig to get back in basically you just gotta look down there moulds if you can see anything major underwater which you can’t really see it but it’s hard to tell well that one you can see see that’s a big lump of aluminium in there it’s not good well it’ll be some of the grinding pace but mostly that was aluminium

Can you see that taper and it’s very hard to see and it’s much the same as grinding your valves and you know when i said it goes that dull gray color you just want that to look dull gray all the way around and then you know you’ve seated the ball in properly yeah but like i said if you do it with that screwdriver i think jim’s do a tool to do it installed but

If not if you’ve got a welder it’s an easy thing to make you can see that line around it look that’s when you know it’s seated in properly as well so when you put your velcroing paste on turn it a few times pull it out if it looks nice and gray all the way around the end of the tool as well you know you’re about there yeah so basically that’s your pump 101 there

Isn’t anything technical in there at all um as long as your springs are okay long as that pop-off valve is working and your ball bearings are in reasonable condition i mean it is what i do is probably overkill people a lot of people won’t do that but if you can do it it makes sense to do it yeah it’s not a big job is it no no not at all as long as that spring’s

Okay because that’s forcing your veins out in the off on the concentric on that um as long as that’s okay set three-eighths of an inch down from the top with the cap off just on that back one so generally put that one in first that gives you three eighths of an inch and just balance on there so you know that’s right um and that is it that is it just making sure

It’s nice and clean all the way through you know next week on the workshop that should be a nice smooth taper yeah and when it sits in inside that hole that bit as that goes in there as the float comes up that should just it should be probably sitting about there so it’s all basically it’s worn out so that’s never ever gonna seal

Transcribed from video
How to assemble the OIL PUMP – 1945 Harley Davidson WLA / ep152 By RiE-Store