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lower your husqvarna 701

If you’re looking to turn your Husqvarna 701 or KTM 690 enduro, into a fully capable Adventure Motorcycle chances are you will be happier if you lower your Husqvarna 701 at least a little. Adding an aftermarket comfort seat tends to add to the height of the bike, and this machine is tall compared with most bikes that you might consider for your next adventure machine. Fortunately thanks to Koubalink and Warp 9 lowering your Husqvarna 701 is actually not very technical, and is a modification that most riders can easily do in the comfort of their own garage.

One of the big reasons why 701 and the 690 get overlooked by a lot of adventure bike riders is the seat height today i’m going to show you how quick and easy it is to change the linkage and drop that seat height the 690 and the 701 represent an excellent choice as an adventure mount but they suffer from a few shortfalls one of them is a very high seat height

A cost affordable solution to this problem is a lowering link in my choice i’m using it cuba link i’ve used these before on other machines so i’m familiar with the product and because i’m lowering the bike definitely once you install the link you’re gonna need one of these i’ve chosen to go with a warp 9 supermoto kickstand this will probably be a little shorter

Than what i want but with a kickstand foot added to the bottom i think it’s going to work out just great and once i add the kickstand and the linkage i’m just going to need to slide the forks up three quarters of an inch in the front triple clamps in order to maintain the handling characteristics of the bike all in all it’s going to take a little while to do this

Installation but i think it’s hugely worth it the bike is going to be a lot more confidence inspiring especially in technical situations where you really want to get your feet planted so let’s get started foreign but it still has a weight bias behind the back wheel so i’ve opted to add bungee cords to the top rack as you can see which are lifting the back wheel up

Off the ground so that we can mess with the rear linkage and not have any pressure on the back wheel foreign and drift out the bolt even with lifting up the tire it’s quite snug it’s a little tricky and there’s a little bit of rust on it i want to put a little bit of grease on that prefer to put grease on a large bolt like this because the grease does actually

Help it to lock down and stay in place and it reduces the chance that we’re going to get some rust buildup and then i won’t be able to get it apart next time so that’s the back end of the linkage and then we need the front end of the linkage and that means the foot pegs need to come off i’m going to take the footbags off that’s a 19. just like the linkage is in

This case because we’ve got the racks we’re going to need to take off the 10 millimeter bolts okay that allows us access to the bolt that’s holding the front of the linkage which is right here all right so i think it’ll spin on both sides if we’re not careful yep so you do need a ratchet on both sides or a wrench on both sides and just push it out with the drift

One side stay threaded on the other side that’s fine no problem but now we can take the linkage out wiggle it out there’s the linkage stock one and now we can replace it with the new linkage all right so there’s the cube link for the 701 needle bearings inside and a grease fitting so that we can grease it up and fill the inside with grease once we’re all said and

Done but right now i’m going to put it in with just a little bit of superficial grease before i reassemble that and then we’ll get it give it a hit with the grease gun once we’re done assembling everything foreign not with the washer or the bolt with the washer needs to go back inside all right so you kind of need three hands to do this to tighten it down put

A ratchet on one side ratchet on the other side foreign last piece of the puzzle is putting the bolt through the the new link a little grease on the threads so we’re going to lift up the back tire a little bit pressure off the link give it a new linkage it looks like tire’s gonna have to go up quite a bit all right so for a little bit of wiggling around bolt

This through all right now that the link is in i’m going to grease that grease fitting i’d like to make sure it’s packed with grease so i’m gonna write it for a bit add a little more grease after a couple days and then i think it should be good for the rest of the season okay so the link is in place the last thing to do is to lower the front forks to match that

Same three-quarter inch so we’re going to slide the forks up three quarter inch in the triple clamps okay so i’m just going to measure three quarters of an inch and mark that right there and i’m going to do that on both forks i’m going to slide the forks up in the triple clamp until i get to the first line there and that’ll be my three quarters of an inch all

Right and these bolts are 10 mil head or they’re a t40 it’s also worth noting that the the shape of the socket doesn’t have really any room in behind the bolt to get in there so you really only get half half of the socket depth if you use a socket so definitely the t40 is a better way to go on the bottom bolts on the top bolts there’s clearance for your socket so

You’re just as well off with either the socket or the t40. with the heated grips and gps wiring and so forth in this area i’m going to need to undo the zip tie make some room at the top of that fork get the fork situated and then gather these wires up again after the fact all right so now i’ve got a lot of space here that i can get this fork situated i’m just

Going to need to use up most of the room that’s here above the uh the fork crown i’m going to lower the stand to apply a little bit of force so my forks are not dangling then with each fork leg i’m just going to kind of twist it back and forth and those are moving really super easy all right feels like i’m dead on the line i’m just going to get my tape measure

And double check myself all right those forks look like they’re exactly where they need to be i will tighten the pinch bolts and then i’ll tidy up my wires for my heated grips so all we have to do is remove these the magnet from the back of the kickstand so there’s a magnet on the back screwed to take that off and then there’s just the main pivot bolt which is a

T45 so we’ll spin that out all right and so there’s the magnet that’s the t27 so we’ll have to get the magnet situated uh in exactly that same spot so that it’ll go in front of the sensor and really not a great design there should be two screws in there to keep it lined up you should always have a t27 if you’ve got a ktm or a husky which has this set up you’re

Going to want a t27 in your tool pack because a common problem is this gets bumped and you need to realign it by just loosening it off centering it back up again and tightening it down kind of a crazy design there should be a pin or something to line this up so you’re gonna don’t end up stranded on the trail because what it’ll do is if this is at alignment as soon

As you shift it into first gear the engine will die and uh that can spoil your day you don’t know what’s happening and basically you’re just going to want to line it up perpendicular this straight edge should be even with the uh with that groove and they’ve got kind of a nice edge here that you can see what where you need to line it up it’s the only trick to this

Install now is going to be pulling the spring i can’t find my spring puller so i’ve taken a paint can opener and and bend it one more time okay that’s done okay guys so with the cuba link in place i’ve dropped the front and the rear of the bike three quarters of an inch um which is the shortest drop that you can get with the cuba link you can go one inch one

And a quarter one and a half i think you can even go one and three quarters but once you get to one and a half you have to actually grind the link um so it’s kind of a involved process most folks not probably going to want to do that um i wanted to maintain as much ground clearance as possible while giving myself a little better reach to the ground i’ve got a 32

Inch inseam and with any kind of a comfort seat aftermarket seat like the z concepts or ranaska or anybody else the seat gets wider at the tank junction and so it’s harder to reach the ground you know in this case three quarters of an inch front back ends up to be where i’m almost flat footed when i’m standing on the bike right now uh you know on an intersection

Or something like that so hopefully uh this was helpful for you if it was smash the like subscribe to follow along because there’s a ton more stuff that i’m doing to the bike before it’s you know the perfect do all go everywhere adventure machine which is ultimately my purpose in doing this build um so glad you stopped by we’ll see you next time bye for now

Transcribed from video
lower your husqvarna 701 By Dual Sport Garage