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Pit Bike SSR 110 Oil Change Procedure With Torque Specification

In this video my son and I go over how to perform and oil change on a pit bike SSR 110. This will include the correct torque specification. I recently purchased a new pit bike SSR 110 for my son. I asked the selling dealer’s mechanic what the torque specification was for the drain plug since the oil pan is aluminum. He basically told me that he just tightens it and did not know the spec. My son had watched some videos on how to perform oil changes for his new bike but none of them mentioned the torque of the drain plug or how important it is to do this procedure correctly. Especially on an aluminum oil pan, since the threads are easily compromised and can strip over time if over torqued. We decided to make a video to share his experience during the first oil change and to share the correct procedure with others. Thanks for watching and please like and subscribe!!

All right so when do we do the first oil change after about two hours of riding right so you’re gonna wanna warm up the bike for about three minutes um it has mineral oil in it as a break-in oil and the correct oil to use for this is 10 40. i’m going to use full synthetic and i mean any brand that you want that’s a 1040 full synthetic takes about half a quart

And then you top off and check the level as needed drain plugs right on the bottom right where this protection skid plate is there’s a hole for draining the oil and right there is what you need to take off all right so what socket do we need we’re using a 17 millimeter socket all right so let’s go ahead and loosen this up okay take the socket off the wrench and

Yep put a little bit of upward pressure until you get all the threads off and then you can just quickly move it away and drain the oil out and it’s going to be common to have metal especially with the break-in so we do have some pieces of metal in there looks like aluminum so we’re gonna let that drain and continue the process all right you can see it stopped

Draining but you’re actually not done so what are you supposed to do at the next step you’re supposed to right so stand the bike up straight and get the remainder of that oil out all right let’s open the cap up too because that’ll help get some air in there all right we’re going to let this drain completely and then close everything back up and torque this drain

Plug down okay so you want to make sure that the threads are clean so you want to just wipe them right i think there was a little bit of residual metal on the threads from the break-in okay so let’s go ahead and thread that in righty-tighty make sure you’re straight so you don’t cross thread it if it ever feels like you get tension when you’re going in stop it

Just means that you’re cross threading it and you don’t want to send it like that because you’re gonna damage the threads yep so we’re just going to bring that up to the top and then we’re going to torque that down all right using a torque wrench the spec is 18 foot pounds so we have this torque wrench set to 18 foot pounds and he’s going to go ahead and torque

The drain plug if you over tighten an aluminum drain plug just like on a bmw it will fail over time just make sure you’re straight there you go yep and keep going till it clicks there it is perfect all right once you over tighten an aluminum drain plug there’s a chance that it will strip over time and you would have to either time insert it or re-thread it

So you don’t want to have to do that it’s just more work just go ahead and torque it properly at the 18 foot pounds right tom yep okay so we’re going to go ahead and add the oil now all right take a second to look at the pieces you can see the metal pieces from the break-in and the swirl yup that’s why you want to make sure you’re doing your oil changes i think

It’s what every six hours of riding yeah six hours of riding you want to change the oil okay all right so we’re gonna go ahead and add what was the weight again 1040 and this is what they had at our local it’s a high mileage what but it’s synthetic that’s what we wanted we’re gonna go ahead and put that in put about half a quart in and then we’re gonna top off as

Needed all right we’ve got a nice funnel for this and you just fill it right here at the dipstick and start about with a half court i’ll plug it in okay hold the dipstick okay make sure the dipstick’s clean and there’s a hash mark on the bottom here and right that’s minimum level at the bottom and that’s full at the top so go ahead screw it in and stand the

Bike up right because we have to make sure that we’re checking it level where’s the show so it’s basically at the minimum mark so we have to add so go ahead grab the funnel funnel back in and give it another glug glug yep good so we’re getting close to the top you there nope here we still go a little bit more yep good here we go yup that was good to me yep

You don’t have to wipe it just shove it back in there yep since we’re not checking it anymore all right so we’re at the top of the hash mark we know it’s full all right great job tom yep all right so we’re all done our first oil change hopefully that helps you please subscribe to my asset car experts youtube channel and maybe we’ll be doing some more bike videos

In the future as uh he breaks it and we need to fix it hopefully you don’t break anything too crazy but he’s gonna have fun i’m sure yep all right thanks for watching and please remember to subscribe and please give this video a thumbs up so we used more than a half right here’s a half mark right so we’re all the way down here so it is probably a little bit more

Than three quarters is what it took you know the guy told me to start about halfway and then just add until we reached our top mark but if you’re looking for a ballpark that’s it right there for one quart of oil you

Transcribed from video
Pit Bike SSR 110 Oil Change Procedure With Torque Specification By AskTheCarExperts