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Replace your headstock bearings – removing the yokes

This short clip is taken from the ‘Replace your headstock bearings’ DVD available from DrivenandRidden.com.

So i’m going to leave the ignition barrel touch the top yo and when it carefully fold it over and light on top of the clocks putting my cloth on there first removing the top yoke reveals the threaded stem underneath the top lock nut the bottom are just a nut and the lock washer that’s been pinned into both top and bottom nuts effectively tying them together bend

The top tabs down to release the top nut it should be tighter than this one so you’ll need to undo it with the correct size c spanner or a drift and hammer the fact that this lock nut is doing anything but indicates that someone has been in here fiddling probably trying to adjust worn bearings now you can just lift the lock washer off and throw it away you should

Only use these once just before i drop the stem out of the headstock i’m going to remove anything still attached to the bottom yoke in this case that’s the horn and the brake hose splitter so now we can drop the bottom yoke and the stem out of the headstock now if you’ve got all your original roller bound in there and you want to keep them perhaps just regress

Them you’re going to want to catch them in something because they’re going to scatter all over the floor probably so i’m going to use this large child a toy bucket to do that and now we’re going to remove the final stem nut now if you don’t have a specialist tool and let’s face it who has you’re going to need to use a flat ended punch like this and the hammer the

Reason we’re not using a chisel is because that will damage the nut working away from the tank gently tap the drift on the adjuster nut in this case the nut and cap our one piece in theory it shouldn’t be too tight but maybe a little seized on the threads so use some penetrating oil and a wire brush if you eating this adjuster not however is too tight and it’s

Probably that over tightening that is cause the bearings to fail as soon as it’s hand tight undo the nut with one hand and hold the yoke underneath with the other so that it doesn’t fall out to the headstock if you’re struggling to get the dust seal ball race and bearing off just slide the stem down so you can get a finger inside and pull them out you may need to

Give the stem a tap with your hand or a soft-faced mallet don’t be tempted to use a metal hammer on top of the stem as you will damage the threads carefully lower the stem and yolk out of the way taking special care not to damage your radiator if you have one so now we’ve got the headstock apart let’s take a look at the various components starting with the bottom

Yoke it has the stem pressed into it at the bottom of the stem is the lower dust seal which keeps out the crap thrown up by the front wheel holding that in place is the lower inner ball race then the ball bearings in this case they’re caged on top of that goes a lower outer ball race which is still in the headstock then the upper outer ball race again still in the

Headstock the upper set of caged ball bearings then the upper inner ball race on top of that is the upper dust seal the top cap and adjuster not in this case one piece the lock washer and the lock nut the top yoke sits between the lock nut and the top yoke nut clean the old grease off the ball races so you can check the surfaces for wear if you look closely at the

Bottom inner ball race you can see these marks in it they coincide with each ball bearing and might well be the result of over tightening or perhaps too many wheelies it’s those marks that are causing the steering to self-center as each ball is forced into its divot because the stem is adjusted too tightly you can also see corrosion on the top outer ball race which

Will give a rough feel to the steering as well oh

Transcribed from video
Replace your headstock bearings – removing the yokes By DrivenandRidden